Updated: Sep 10
Meet Stormy.
Stormy is the first adult garment I ever designed. And if we are being really honest, the first adult sweater I ever finished knitting. Yes, that's right. I designed a sweater without ever finishing one. But hear me out! I did take Aroha Knits' Swatch Studio course to learn how to design, and I had knit probably dozens of baby sweaters, which more or less add up to one big one, right?
I learned so much designing this sweater, truly. I learned that pima cotton is heavier than it looks - so feel free to experiment with other fibres here. I learned that you can't practice your Continental on a huge area of Stockinette and then switch back to English part way - it definitely shows. And I learned that while not every design has to be groundbreaking, it is fun to do something different and unique.
Stormy looks great on so many body shapes - I wore it through my entire pregnancy and beyond. The boat neck and simple front is the perfect backdrop for your favourite statement or long pendant necklace. I love it equally with a pencil skirt in yarn with a little sheen, as I do with my favourite distressed denim.
Without further ado, I am now sharing Stormy for free below. Please pin this post on Pinterest if you like it, and share your projects on instagram by tagging @handknitsandhygge and #StormySweater. Sharing helps my business grow! You can also choose to purchase the ad-free PDF on Payhip.
Stormy Sweater by Nicky Jensen. Copyright 2018. All Rights Reserved.
About:
Spring is a time of transition, most notably in the weather. Where I live, in Canada, we emerge cautiously from hibernation as the first signs of spring start to appear. This time is full of nourishing rain showers, drops glistening on the earliest fronds of green. The lace pattern worked down each sleeve of this sweater reminds me of one of the first blooms we see in this region, lily-of-the-valley, with its rows of delicate, drooping blossoms. A light, breathable cotton sweater is just what I reach for during this time of unpredictable weather. The lace motif, combined with an unusual open-back construction puts an interesting twist on this otherwise mellow project. This pattern is designed for ladies sizes XS to XL, with enough positive ease to make this your new go to for both warmer days and layering.
Needles:
US size 6/4mm 16”/40cm circular needle (or size needed to obtain gauge).
US size 6/4mm DPNs (or size needed to obtain gauge).
Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% pima cotton; 220yds [200metres]/3.5oz [100g]).
Sample uses colour #3756 “Slate”.
Estimated yardage:
XS: 358 grams / 788 yds / 716 metres.
S: 406 grams / 893 yds / 812 metres.
M: 467 grams / 1027 yds / 934 metres.
L: 508 grams / 1118 yds / 1016 metres.
XL: 565 grams / 1243 yds / 1130 metres.
Gauge: 20 stitches/26 rows worked flat = 4”/10cm square in Stockinette Stitch using U.S. 6/4.0mm needles after blocking.
20 stitches/26 rows worked flat = 4”/10cm square in Lace Motif using U.S. 6/4.0mm needles after blocking.
Other Notions: eight stitch markers, two stitch holders or waste yarn, two 1”/2.5cm buttons, darning needle for finishing.
Size XS:
Chest circumference: 32” / 81 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 14.5” / 37 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 9.75” / 25 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 16.5” / 43 cm
Underarm to hem: 15.75” / 40 cm.
Size S:
Chest circumference: 36” / 81 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 15” / 38 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 10.25” / 26 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 17” / 43 cm.
Underarm to hem: 15.75” / 40.5 cm.
Size M:
Chest circumference: 40” / 101.5 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 16” / 40.5 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 11” / 28 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 17” / 43 cm.
Underarm to hem: 16.25” / 41 cm.
Size L:
Chest circumference: 44” / 112 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 17” / 43 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 12” / 30.5 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 17.5” / 44.5 cm.
Underarm to hem: 16.5” / 42 cm.
Size XL:
Chest circumference: 48” / 122 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 17.5” / 44.5 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 13.5” / 34 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 17.5” / 44.5 cm.
Underarm to hem: 16.75” / 42.5 cm.
Techniques Used:
Knit & purl, bind off, lace increases and decreases
Long tail cast on (see Supplemental Resources)
Working in the round on circular needles
Working in the round on double pointed needles
Abbreviations:
DPNs - double pointed needles
k - knit
k2tog - knit two stitches together (decreases 1 st)
kfb - knit into front and back of one stitch (increases 1 st)
p - purl
ssk - slip the next 2 stitches, one by one, knitwise; insert the tip of the left needle, from left to right, into the fronts of those 2 stitches and knit them together (decreases 1 stitch)
yo - yarn-over
Pattern Notes:
Construction: This open-back sweater uses raglan construction and is worked in one piece, flat on a circular needle. It is designed to have positive ease for a comfortable fit that showcases the drape of the cotton yarn. After the initial increases are worked, the stitches for the sleeves are separated onto stitch holders. The body is continued flat on a circular needle. Next, each sleeve is worked by transferring held stitches from stitch holder onto DPNs (or preferred needle for small circumference circular knitting) and worked in the round. The overlapping back sections have a buttonhole at the collar on the back of either shoulder. Each side gradually tapers toward the waist resulting in an open lower back.
Note on lace pattern: The lace pattern continues from the yoke onto the sleeves - pay careful attention to what round you start on for each size so that it lines up seamlessly.
Pattern Stitches:
Seed Stitch: (multiple of 2 stitches):
All RS rows: *k1, p1; repeat from *to end.
All WS rows: *p1, k1; repeat from *to end.
Sleeve Lace Pattern:
Round 1 and all odd-numbered rounds: p2, k9, p2, k2, p2, k9, p2.
Round 2: p2, k3, k2tog, k4, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, yo, k4, ssk, k3, p2.
Round 4: p2, k2, k2tog, k4, yo, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k1, yo, k4, ssk, k2, p2.
Round 6: p2, k1, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k4, ssk, k1, p2.
Round 8: p2, k2tog, k4, yo, k3, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k3, yo, k4, ssk, p2.
Pattern:
Collar:
Cast on 146 [158, 176, 192, 204] stitches on circular needle using Long Tail cast on or preferred cast-on method for a neat edge.
Row 1 (RS): seed stitch across.
Row 2 (WS): *work in seed stitch for 42 [46, 52, 56, 60] stitches, place marker, seed stitch 10 [10, 10, 12, 12] stitches, place marker; repeat from *once, seed stitch to end.
Row 3 (RS): seed stitch 2 stitches, bind off 2 stitches (1st buttonhole), seed stitch to 4 stitches before next m, bind off 2 stitches (2nd buttonhole), *seed stitch to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *3 more times, seed stitch to end.
Row 4 (WS): seed stitch across, slipping markers, to last marker, seed stitch 3 stitches, cast on 2, seed stitch to last 2 stitches, cast on 2, seed stitch to end.
Row 5 (RS): *seed stitch to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *3 more times, seed stitch to end (162 [174, 192, 208, 220] stitches).
Row 6 (WS): seed stitch across, slipping markers, to end.
Yoke:
Work Rows 1-17 [1-17, 1-17, 3-17, 3-17] once, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, k3, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k3, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 2: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p5, k2, p2, k2, p to marker, slip marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 3: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, k4, place marker, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, place marker, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 (WS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p to marker, slip marker, k2, p2, k2, slip marker, p to marker, slip marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 5: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, slip marker, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 7: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, slip marker, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 9: As row 5.
Row 11: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, k2, k2tog, k4, yo, slip marker, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, slip marker, yo, k4, ssk, k2, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 13: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, k2, k2tog, k4, yo, k1, remove marker, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, remove marker, k1, yo, k4, ssk, k2, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 14: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p1, k1, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k1, p1, slip marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 15: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, p1, k1, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k4, ssk, k1, p1, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 16: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p1, place marker, k2, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k2, place marker, p1, repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 17: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, slip marker, p2, k2tog, k4, yo, k3, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k3, yo, k4, ssk, p2, slip marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Work rows 18-25 2 [2, 3, 3, 4] times as follows:
Row 18 and all WS rows: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p to marker, slip marker, k2, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k2, slip marker, p to marker, slip marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 19: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, work row 2 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, slip marker, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 21: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, work row 4 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 23: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, work row 6 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 25: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, work row 8 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Work rows 18-19 [18-23, 18-19, 18-23, 18-19] once more (288 [314, 346, 368, 394] stitches).
Divide for sleeves:
Next row (WS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, remove marker and place next 50 [54, 58, 62, 66] stitches on stitch holder, remove marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Body:
Row 1 (RS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 2 and 4 (WS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 3: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Repeat these 4 rows until work measures 14.75 [15, 15.25, 15.5, 15.75]” / 37.5 [38, 38.75, 39.5, 40] cm from underarm.
Work 5 rows in seed stitch.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Sleeves:
For each sleeve, transfer 50 [54, 58, 62, 66] stitches from stitch holder or waste yarn and distribute onto DPNs. Place markers at beginning of round and before first purl stitch. Continue the Sleeve Lace from the yoke as follows:
Beginning on Round 3 [7, 3, 7, 3], repeat these 16 rounds 6 [6, 6, 7, 6] times:
Round 1 and all odd-numbered rounds: knit to marker, slip marker, p2, k9, p2, k2, p2, k9, p2, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 2: knit to marker, slip marker, work round 2 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 4: knit to marker, slip marker, work round 4 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 6: knit to marker, slip marker, work round 6 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 8: knit to marker, slip marker, work round 8 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 10: As round 2.
Round 12: As round 4.
Round 14: As round 6.
Round 16: knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, work round 8 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, ssk, knit to end, slip marker.
Work rounds 1 - 11 [1-15, 1-13, 1-3, 1-15] once more (38 [42, 46, 48, 54] stitches).
Work 5 rounds in seed stitch. Bind off loosely in pattern.
Finishing:
Weave in ends and block to measurements. Attach buttons to back of collar in line with buttonholes. You may wish to reinforce the underarms using a darning needle.
About Nicky Jensen:
Nicky is a medical radiation technologist in Toronto, Canada. She has been knitting and crocheting for over 25 years. Recently, she discovered a passion for knitwear design after enrolling in a course as something to keep her occupied during her maternity leave. Other interests include exploring new places both locally and abroad, and practicing hygge (the Danish art of making oneself cozy) with her husband, baby daughter, and dog.
Share your works in progress on Instagram: @handknitsandhygge
Updated: Sep 5
Dear Blog,
I'm so sorry I've neglected you. It's been a busy summer and I have actually had a lot to say on the knitting front - I will have to find some time to get you up to speed.
First things first - after several months of focusing on technical editing and pattern grading for other designers, I have a new design of my own to launch.
The Shirley tee is a pattern for a baby, toddler, and kid's babydoll tee. It's worked top-down, in the round, with raglan construction. It features a sweet lacy pattern on the bodice and a slightly flared body with eyelet hem. My testers just finished with this one and I love what they've created!
My sample uses fingering weight cotton yarn, and this is recommended. Cotton has unique properties that create a finished fabric much different than wool or acrylic. Wet blocking the cotton will open up the lace and help the garment "grow" to its intended finished measurements. Some of my testers who used other fibres made simple modifications to customize their garment to their liking.
This pattern is available in ad-free PDF format in my Payhip shop and includes a separate PDF formatted for print challenged users. This version uses black Arial 24 point font, no columns or italics, and fewer abbreviations for increased readability. It has been tested with Adobe's Read Out Loud.
The Shirley by Nicky Jensen.
About:
When I stumbled across a forgotten tub of Shirley Brian Yarns 4 ply gradient cotton, I felt like I'd hit the jackpot. Spring 2020, in isolation with my toddler, I was excited to find more than enough in that tub to make a sweet little cotton tee for her. The shirt is worked top down in the round using seamless raglan construction. Increases create an empire waist and the hem is finished with eyelet detail.
Shirley Brian Yarns is located in Ontario, Canada, just like me - and the company is named after the founder's grandmother, Shirley. I was also taught to knit by a Shirley, my wonderful mom, who we had been missing dearly while isolating.
Mom, this one's for you.
This particular 4 ply gradient yarn is discontinued, but on sale at the time of publication. Any similar fingering weight yarn will do. If using suggested yarn or other gradient yarn, I suggest making sleeve cuffs first and then moving onto the body so that the sleeve cuffs will match the colour gradient.
Yarn:
Shirley Brian Yarns 100% Cotton Gradient Yarn, fingering weight, 480 yds / 439 m per 4.59oz / 130g skein). Sample in colourway “Stars Hollow.”
Size 3 month uses 201 yds / 184 metres.
Size 6 month uses 240 yds / 219 metres.
Size 12 month uses 270 yds / 247 metres.
Size 18 month uses 302 yds / 276 metres.
Size 2 uses 354 yds / 324 metres.
Size 4 uses 429 yds / 392 metres.
Size 6 uses 507 yds / 464 metres.
Needles:
US 4 / 3.5 mm 16" circular and DPNs.
US 6 / 4 mm - 16" circular, or size needed to obtain gauge.
Notions:
4 stitch markers, stitch holders, tapestry needle.
Gauge:
28 stitches and 32 rounds = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette; 24 stitches and 40 rounds = 4" / 10 cm in mesh stitch; blocked, in the round.
Sizes:
Model is wearing size 2 with 2" positive ease.
Size 3 month finished chest: 17.75” / 45 cm.
- Body length (underarm to hem): 6.5” / 16.5 cm.
- Yoke depth: 3” / 7.5 cm.
- Sleeve circumference: 5.5” / 14 cm.
Size 6 month finished chest: 18.75” / 47.5 cm.
- Body length (underarm to hem): 7.5” / 19 cm.
- Yoke depth: 3.25” / 8.5 cm.
- Sleeve circumference: 6” / 15 cm.
Size 12 month finished chest: 19.75” / 50 cm.
- Body length (underarm to hem): 8” / 20.5 cm.
- Yoke depth: 3.5” / 9 cm.
- Sleeve circumference: 6.5” / 16.5 cm.
Size 18 month finished chest: 20.75” / 52.5 cm.
- Body length (underarm to hem): 8.5” / 21.5 cm.
- Yoke depth: 3.75” / 9.5 cm.
- Sleeve circumference: 7” / 18 cm.
Size 2 finished chest: 23” / 58.5 cm.
- Body length (underarm to hem): 9” / 23 cm.
- Yoke depth: 4” / 10 cm.
- Sleeve circumference: 7.5” / 19 cm.
Size 4 finished chest: 25” / 63.5 cm.
- Body length (underarm to hem): 10” / 25.5 cm.
- Yoke depth: 4.5” / 11.5 cm.
- Sleeve circumference: 7.5” / 19 cm.
Size 6 finished chest: 27.25” / 69 cm.
- Body length (underarm to hem): 11” / 28 cm.
- Yoke depth: 4.75” / 12 cm.
- Sleeve circumference: 8.75” / 22 cm.
Updated: Sep 3
One of my favourite things about being crafty is my ability to create handmade gifts. I love receiving handmade gifts - as a maker I appreciate the amount of thought, time, and love that goes into them.
Plus, some people are just darn hard to buy for - a handmade gift is guaranteed to be unique, and completely customizable. Below, in addition to some of my finished patterns, I've included some beginner friendly "recipes" - determining the fit and look you want is part of the fun.
Without further ado, here are some of my favorite handmade gifts:
For the Home Decorator - The Jumbo Knit Throw
This is one of my favourite projects because they are so popular, so chic, and so fast and easy! I would always see these at craft sales for hundreds of dollars, which made me want to make one myself even more. It turns out, the yarn can be rather expensive, because a few balls goes a long way - and is quite heavy. Anticipate needing about eight pounds of yarn for a project like this. I used Free Spirit by Loops & Threads (now discontinued) - each skein was 2lbs! Wool roving is a great fibre to use for this project. With such a thick yarn, extraordinarily large needles are required. Many people use their arms as needles - there are so many videos on how to do this. Here's one.
Personally, I found that arm knitting gave me an inconsistent gauge. Some people purchase giant needles (35mm or larger), or use PVC pipes. I used tubes of gift wrap because I had them on hand and they were lightweight, although once I got going, the yarn itself became very heavy anyway. Arm knitting has a little bit of a learning curve, but knitting on large needles is just like regular knitting - think of it as a giant version of a gauge swatch.
I was lucky to find the Free Spirit on clearance and only spent about $60. But the best thing about this project is that you can complete a blanket in an hour or less, and simple stockinette stitch still makes a big impact. This is definitely my favourite last-minute handknit gift that is sure to impress.
Try this: for a throw-sized blanket, get about 8lbs of jumbo yarn or wool roving, and size 35mm or larger needles or other cylindrical implements. Cast on 30 - 40 sts, and knit in stockinette until you run out of yarn. For neat edges, slip the first stitch of each row. Couldn't be simpler!
For the Commuter - The Chunky Cowl
Every fall and winter I love making chunky cowls and infinity scarves. They combine all of the things I consider "fun" knitting - bulky yarn, circular needles, and a fast, easy to memorize stitch pattern. I find working in this manner meditative. Where I live in Canada, winters can be brutal, so a thick cozy scarf that can be wrapped around the face and head is a must. I even made one for my dog!
Another great thing about the chunky cowl is it's a perfect way to show off a relatively small amount of yarn, and run wild with colourways. From ombre, to variegated, to tonal, it can all work in a relatively simple rib stitch. I find a rib or brioche stitch works best for this project because it creates a thick, warm fabric. Just a skein or two of bulky yarn (something like Lion Brand Scarfie) is enough. If you know how to brioche, you can use two colours to create a reversible fabric.
Try this: For a cowl, use a bulky weight yarn and size US 13/9mm or larger circular needles (16" long). Some bulky yarns are heavier than others, so if your fabric feels too dense or doesn't have enough "squish", you might need an even larger gauge needle. Many yarns have a needle size suggested on the ball band. Cast on about 60 sts and work in the round in rib stitch until your tube is 12 - 15" long. This creates enough fabric to cover the neck and pull up around the face. Go even longer for a cowl that can be pulled up over the head like a hood.
For an infinity scarf, you can do the same thing but on a longer circular needle, casting on about 160 sts. Alternatively, you can use straight needles and cast on 40 stitches, work in rib stitch for five to six feet. My general guideline for scarves is as long as the wearer is tall, but an infinity scarf doesn't need to be as long; just enough to wrap around twice. Bind off, and then seam the two ends together.
Also try my Chasm shawlette - the complete pattern is free for newsletter subscribers or available on Ravelry.
For the Environmentalist - The Wash Cloth
I use these every day at home - my great aunt makes them every Christmas and I find them so so handy for reducing the amount of disposable products I use (wet wipes, paper towels). I often see small skeins of cotton yarn on sale - again this is the perfect project in any colour. Bonus points for matching your recipient's home decor.
There are so many patterns for this and it is a fun place to try out any stitch pattern. My great aunt has a lot of gifts to make, starting with over 30 grandchildren, so her go-to is the basic garter stitch mitered square.
Try this: using worsted weight cotton yarn and US 8 / 5mm needles, cast on 3 stitches. K1, m1, knit to end; every row, until you have a triangle with sides measuring about 7" (measuring the edge of the work, rather than the depth). From this point, k1, k2tog, knit to end, until 3 stitches remain, and bind off. That's it! You can play around with the increase and decrease stitches you use (try out a yarn over or a kfb instead of a m1 for a different look).
If you crochet, try making 4" circles as face scrubbies or makeup cloths.
For the New Parents - The Baby Sweater
This is getting a bit more advanced, but still a relatively quick make. Every time a new baby comes along, I love to knit them a sweater. While the baby blanket is a beautiful, timeless gift, I really enjoy making tiny garments. I've shared my own design, Baby Sand Dollar, in another blog post. It takes a smaller amount of yarn than a baby blanket, and less time. I also find sweaters more engaging than blankets, which helps me stay on task. Other great baby gifts include headbands, hats, and of course, booties. Note that babies don't really wear scarves, but they definitely need hats when they are small, even in warmer climates.
Try this: For a quick baby hat, use size US 6 / 4mm double pointed needles and DK weight baby yarn. Cast on 70 (preemie) to 80 (newborn) stitches and work in the round in rib stitch for 1/2". Switch to stockinette and work until piece measures 7" (preemie) to 9" (larger infant). Graft straight across using kitchener stitch, or bind off and sew straight across using a tapestry needle. Use tapestry needle to gather and tie the corners into "ears". This pattern looks even more impressive in a self patterning yarn such as Bernat Baby Jacquards or King Cole Cherish.
My biggest tip for a successful baby gift is choosing the right yarn. Even inexpensive baby yarn feels softer and smoother than other yarns, which is good for baby's delicate skin. Also check the label to ensure that the yarn is washable. New parents are very busy and new babies are very messy. My first prototype sample of Baby Sand Dollar turned out not to be washable, and thus, not practical for a baby. I currently use Cascade Anchor Bay - a cotton wool blend that feels extremely soft and is wearing very well.
What's your favourite project you've ever made as a gift? Share on instagram with the hashtag #handknitsandhygge - and be sure to tag if you try any of these!
